2005 Peugeot 206 engine rattling on acceleration and black smoke
Year: 2005
Variant: HDI 2.0
Categories:
Running Rough, Starting & Power Loss
Problem that has eluded 3 garages to date. On startup engine rattles badly but clears if you accelerate a small amount, on gentle acceleration all is good. On medium to hard acceleration severe engine rattling accompanied with copious black smoke until a point is reached where the engine rattling stops around 3k rpm and car continues to pull strongly....until you lift off and it starts over again.
Problem started originally as mild rattling at a constant throttle on gentle running but would clear if you accelerated or decelerated but got worse over about 4 weeks. 1 injectors had high spill readings so was changed. Sorted for a couple of weeks then problem became worse with rattling at any acceleration. 2nd Injector had developed a slightly higher than normal spill so diagnosed as injector imbalance...and as the new injector had a different reference code 9641742880 as apposed to the original being 9653594280 the remaining 3 were changed as well. The type code 0445110-076 was common to all old and new injectors so was told that this was fine...MPG went up from 47 to 55mpg so great performance but then to the current problem...severe rattling on startup till throttle is blipped great on gentle acceleration but then the severe rattling and black smoke which clears if you dare to push through it. 1 garage said you needed to update the ECU with the new injector codes.. but this is not possible in the diagnostics testing program garage 1 used. Injector specialist said this was irrelevant as with common rail providing the 1st code type is the same which it was. Changed glow plugs..to clear startup rattling...no difference.. changed EGR solenoid..no difference (and indeed no difference if you disconnected the Solenoid completely or plugged the vacuum lines). Told it was likely to be the EGR valve itself...so went to Main Peugeot dealer..EGR valve was OK (supposedly) but diagnostics pointed to engine problem and they recommended compression testing... done and all cylinders within spec so no head leakage.. they couldn't decide what next so went to 3rd garage who found all OK on diagnostics but recommended changing injectors (as flow readings on injectors although within spec showed a high variation between the 4) around to rule out engine problems... injector readings followed the injectors so assumed engine OK (injectors were very heavily sooted). Full diagnostic check found Fuel temperature sensor reading was -50'c at all engine temperatures.. replaced and retested still remained at -50'c so it was assumed that it is likely to be an ECU corruption as the wires seem in good condition!!....This is where I am at at the moment. The Car is basically running better than its ever done MPG wise and has done barely 90K miles so to good to scrap..but no one has a clue what's wrong
Problem started originally as mild rattling at a constant throttle on gentle running but would clear if you accelerated or decelerated but got worse over about 4 weeks. 1 injectors had high spill readings so was changed. Sorted for a couple of weeks then problem became worse with rattling at any acceleration. 2nd Injector had developed a slightly higher than normal spill so diagnosed as injector imbalance...and as the new injector had a different reference code 9641742880 as apposed to the original being 9653594280 the remaining 3 were changed as well. The type code 0445110-076 was common to all old and new injectors so was told that this was fine...MPG went up from 47 to 55mpg so great performance but then to the current problem...severe rattling on startup till throttle is blipped great on gentle acceleration but then the severe rattling and black smoke which clears if you dare to push through it. 1 garage said you needed to update the ECU with the new injector codes.. but this is not possible in the diagnostics testing program garage 1 used. Injector specialist said this was irrelevant as with common rail providing the 1st code type is the same which it was. Changed glow plugs..to clear startup rattling...no difference.. changed EGR solenoid..no difference (and indeed no difference if you disconnected the Solenoid completely or plugged the vacuum lines). Told it was likely to be the EGR valve itself...so went to Main Peugeot dealer..EGR valve was OK (supposedly) but diagnostics pointed to engine problem and they recommended compression testing... done and all cylinders within spec so no head leakage.. they couldn't decide what next so went to 3rd garage who found all OK on diagnostics but recommended changing injectors (as flow readings on injectors although within spec showed a high variation between the 4) around to rule out engine problems... injector readings followed the injectors so assumed engine OK (injectors were very heavily sooted). Full diagnostic check found Fuel temperature sensor reading was -50'c at all engine temperatures.. replaced and retested still remained at -50'c so it was assumed that it is likely to be an ECU corruption as the wires seem in good condition!!....This is where I am at at the moment. The Car is basically running better than its ever done MPG wise and has done barely 90K miles so to good to scrap..but no one has a clue what's wrong
Posted: Oct 24, 2015 (8 years ago)
That's some pretty comprehensive testing.
assuming as stated everything is good I'm going back to basics.
black smoke is either fuel air mixture related,
too much fuel or not enough air.
both of which you seem to have addressed.
So if it were here with me now,
and seeing as the injectors have been out so ought to be easy to come out again I'd be measuring the piston height down through the injector holes.
You can actually do this with a welding rod,
BDC then TDC on each cylinder.
mark the position on the rod,
masking tape and biro works just fine.
your not shooting for minute accuracy here just comparative differences.
If,like I have found in the past with a couple of engines 6mm of difference then the head comes off for a more accurate dial gauge measurement.
Oh and both of the engines exhibited good compression readings.
not too surprising as when you do a compression test your actually testing the pumping ability of the cylinder.
not piston height.
A simple old school test with a welding rod,
little or no cost but can be surprisingly revealing.
Oh and if I recall right on one engine when stripped down revealed an "S" bend con rod.
The owner THEN remembered driving through a big BIG puddle.
You can't compress water so the con rod let go.
assuming as stated everything is good I'm going back to basics.
black smoke is either fuel air mixture related,
too much fuel or not enough air.
both of which you seem to have addressed.
So if it were here with me now,
and seeing as the injectors have been out so ought to be easy to come out again I'd be measuring the piston height down through the injector holes.
You can actually do this with a welding rod,
BDC then TDC on each cylinder.
mark the position on the rod,
masking tape and biro works just fine.
your not shooting for minute accuracy here just comparative differences.
If,like I have found in the past with a couple of engines 6mm of difference then the head comes off for a more accurate dial gauge measurement.
Oh and both of the engines exhibited good compression readings.
not too surprising as when you do a compression test your actually testing the pumping ability of the cylinder.
not piston height.
A simple old school test with a welding rod,
little or no cost but can be surprisingly revealing.
Oh and if I recall right on one engine when stripped down revealed an "S" bend con rod.
The owner THEN remembered driving through a big BIG puddle.
You can't compress water so the con rod let go.
Posted Oct 24, 2015 (8 years ago)
Hydraulic lifters.
Posted Oct 25, 2015 (8 years ago)
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