F flashing, light with car and spanner flashing, car starting and not starting

Flashing "F" is a easitronic gearbox fault warning .but this could be something a simple as a faulty brake light.
What you need is someone with Tech 2 or OpCom software,main dealer is obvious but call around,many idies have this,I do.

would that explain the lock down on the car because my break light does flicker or sometimes it will stay of or it can work fine. i have put it in to a dealer today but there not looking at it till tomoz its costing me £70 for the diagnostic how long should it take to pick somethng like that up on there machine.

i hope this will help any one with similar problems.i took my car to a vauxhall dealer they found that it was the electrical unit that sits in top of the gear box. the seal on the unit had worn and water was getting in to the unit and had corroded all the wires and what ever else is in there. what they could do for me was take it all apart replace all the wireing give it a right good clean dry it out put it back togeather and reseal it. i dont seam to be haveing any problems with it now. dont be scared to take it to a dealer they did me a really good deal on it if it happens again it will cost 700 for a new unit plus labour.

problem described is worn brushes on the clutch actuator motor, had the same issue, had replaced wheel speed sensor and the clutch :no joy
checking prices for potential fix from main stealers offered repair prices ranging from 700- 2500 and couldnt guarantee the result.
Decided to attempt myself: after a lot of investigation stripping down control unit and all actuator motors (three in total) 1)clutch actuator 2) gear selector 3)gear position control
all seemed relatively good
comparing each of the bosch motor against each other with the motor housing removed and checking fo play between the brushes and rotor revealed a slight gap.
clutch control motor is the lowest mounted motor of the three
removal :
undo torx bolts located on the mounting bracket and disconnect the clutch fluid pipe and electrical connections
remove the clutch motor
undo torx bolts on the motor housing and pull housing away from motor (can feel sticky to remove due to magnetism and top bearing seating)
two plastic brush retainer protrude upward (unfortunately these need to be snapped of at the base as a circular plate is riveted into place) keep these as they will be needed later
carefully bend back two copper prongs of the internal brush sleeve and extract the brush
note (the brushes are connected via a coil configuration to the electrical supply) dont attempt to remove the coil
snip the wire close to the brush
measure the brushes as new brushes will have be of the same dimension
for brushes of the size required can be bought for only a few euro
new brushes: if a contact plate is attached to the new brushes snip this off close to the contact plate
solder the wire on the new brush to the wire protruding from the coil on the motor (ensuring spring is in position around the wire
insert into the sleeve)
bend copper prongs back into position to hold spring
replace the plastic tabs snapped off earlier by positioning in place and plastic welding them at the base using a soldering iron ( the integrity of strength of the plastic weld is not an issue so long as the plastic tab are held firmly in place until the motor housing is replaced)
refit torx screws to housing
and refit motor car
jobs a goodun

Forgot to mention you will need to bleed clutch after using op-com or tech 2
may need to do clutch point adaptation and gear setup as well (depends whether the gear setup and clutch are out of sync) using op-com or tech 2