2002 Ford Focus temperature gauge and leak
Year: 2002
Variant: 1.6 Ghia Auto
Categories:
Running Rough, Starting & Power Loss
OK, I will try to summarise the problem. I noticed the temperature gauge wasn't working, and then I noticed there was coolant on top of the spark plugs!!! So I took it to Ford, who fitted new ECT sensor, and also replaced the spark plugs and the cylinder head core plugs (was this necessary?), charging me £350 for the privilege. Now I am experiencing that when I turn the ignition on, the engine revs up to 2-2500 rpm, for a long time, and the temperature gauge takes a long time to move and even when it does, the needle doesn't go to near the middle, unless I go for a long drive down the motorway. When the middle move the middle, the engine will idle nicely at around 750rpm. I presume the choke keeps the revs up until the temperature increases then will slow down? But why is it taking a long time for the temperature gauge to move? The sensor was replaced. What should I do? I am getting really fed up. There doesn't appear to be any more coolant on top of the spark plugs so that's good. Ford mechanics seem to have fixed one problem, yet caused another? I would really appreciate any advice you could give me on this problem. Thanks!
Posted: May 2, 2009 (14 years ago)
well because you are not loseing any more water the engine is staying cooler for longer this would explain the guage not going right up as it was doing before so thats nothing to worrie about but the revs sound like they are holding on to long if you ask me sowould go back to the dealers and have the problem fixed as it wasnt there before is what you should tell them aand there should be no charge for this as i say tell them what you have had done and you are now expierincing the revs holding on for a long time
Posted May 2, 2009 (14 years ago)
Many thanks for your reply. I agree that the engine staying at high revs when I start it, is very unusual and it certainly wasn’t doing it before. I am also wondering whether the thermostat could also cause the needle not to move? Are the revs connected to the temperature gauge? i.e. the car will only idle at 750rpm if the needle is in middle? I am also worried the mechanic tampered with the choke when he fixed the car. The problem for me this car is automatic, and it is very difficult to control with such high idle revs when the engine starts. Before, it usually dropped in revs after about 30 seconds. Now it is taking nearly 10 minutes for the needle to move and for the engine speed to drop before I can safely start to move the car. Finally do you think a £350 bill was reasonable and was it necessary to replace the core plugs? Thanks for your help.
Posted May 2, 2009 (14 years ago)
if your core plugs were leaking then yes the 350 bill would have been reasonable but i would still take it back and have them give it a once over with it being a automatic tell them its revs are to hi and your finding it hard to get in to gears due to the engine reving hi and see what they say hope this helps you out
Posted May 3, 2009 (14 years ago)
I appreciate your feedback. However sadly this is now looking like a very serious problem, I switched the engine on today, and the engine warning light came on, and it looks like there is either petrol or oil coming out of exhaust. What should I do? I am stuck 100 miles away from the Ford dealers where I got it supposedly fixed! I presume you advise not to drive it anymore, as no doubt this will cause more damage to the engine. I will see if the recovery people will agree to transport back to them. I presume if I took it to another Ford dealership near me, they will charge me extra? They're all separate franchises right? I am extremely angry with the Ford mechanic who fixed this car.
Posted May 3, 2009 (14 years ago)
OK to cut long story short, back it went to Ford, who found that the bloody wiring loom needs replacing another £200 repair bill. Apparently the connector got corroded because it was sitting in coolant for too long. They also believe this is why the warning light came on, because they ran a diagnostic that said the problem was from the temperature sensor. The temperature sensor wasn’t working properly, and hence the engine thinks it was too cold, and kept the revs artificially high. However I was assured that the engine won’t overheat. I told them to go ahead and fix the problem. They gave me a 10% discount what a joke, should’ve resolved the problem first time. I’ll laugh if it is the instrument cluster that is causing all this, because they have been reported to be faulty as well.
Posted May 7, 2009 (14 years ago)
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