1997 Toyota Auris car won't start after i replaced ignition barrel

are you sure the new key does`nt have a chip in it?if so you will need to get it programmed

It looks like a regular plain car key to me, in that it has no buttons or sensors or the like on it. The guy in the breakers yard told me the new ignition barrel had come from a Corolla. When we compared the two barrels they appeared exactly the same. He seemed to think it would work fine (he offered me money back if it didn't, so I don't think he was fobbing me off).

Sorry, I also forgot to add that after a few tries with the new barrel/key I reverted back to the old one, in that I reinstalled it and after a few minutes wiggling the key I got it to engage, but the same new problem persisted, that is, the engine turns but won't start.

Re. lights not working , check fuses which may or may not also affect ignition circuit .If battery is run down after a few turns , it could have weak / dud cells which would draw electrical power from engine .Other possible cause would be starter motor dragging down battery .Have you tried a jump start ? Best to check if you are getting a spark first of all and if so check getting fuel .

Hi, Just to let you know I got sorted. Firstly, I took out the battery and fully charged it. next, I went with 2145simon's advice and investigated whether the key was chipped. I took the old and new key to a locksmith who confirmed that there was a chip moulded into the plastic head of the key. He predicted a very awkward job to sort it. On hearing it was for a Toyota he asked me to bring him in the old barrel. he told me certain types/years of toyota were notorious for giving problems with the pins inside the ignition barrel - two half pins used in places instead of a single solid pin.These half pins invariably slip out of place after a certain amount of time/wear leading to jamming problems. It took about 15 minutes and he had my old barrel fixed. A quick re-install followed by turning the ignition on 3 times in a row followed by a full start and away she went. I'm not sure if that last part was actually needed - he guessed it might be something like that- it may have started straight off anyway. All in all, I'm happy and not too much out of pocket. The breakers will refund for the replacement barrel and the repair to the original cost €20. Thanks to all for the help.

Thanks for update , good to hear car fixed .

my 1998 Picnic 2 litre manual-Petrol needs the key inserting in to the ignition barrel, wiggling, re-inserting other way round for up to 3 minutes or so before it clicks into the start position. Toyoya want £400 to fix it.

I would love to know who your locksmith is please.

Otherwise, I am thinking of removing the ignition barrel innards (keeping the slot & pickup ring) then wiring an external 'ignition on' switch & push start button ( I used to build 'Stock Hatch' race cars).

OK, so my PICNIC was quoted £400 by Toyota to fix the ignition, so I decided to rewire it, BUT first I tried a repair & it WORKED!!!.
1. remove cowling from around steering wheel & unscrew the key pick-up coil (black plastic ring)
2. Put ignition key in lock & switch to the 'ACC' position (you may need 1-2 sharp taps with a hammer on the barrel to get key to turn).
3. Press button along the length of the barrel with a small screwdriver & withdraw the key & barrel.
4. remove the key
5. carefully file off the 2 rivit like heads on the inner side of the outer lock bezel.
6. using a punch, gently tap in the locking pin, which is part of the bezel(pull the pin out with pliers & keep).
7. Gently tap the bezel off.
8. reinsert the key & slide the inner lock mech' out ( there is a lump of metal that falls out, so be careful, though it can easily be inserted).
9. look along the lock & you will see several brass 'tumblers', remove with pliers, the 4 that are split in half & use a pin to also remove the 4 micro coil springs they leave inside the mech'.
10. reinsert the key & slide the mech into the barrel & at the same time, lifting the locating device using the long bar that comes out of the end of the barrel.
11. place the front bezel back on the barrel.
12. back in the vice, drill out the 2 rivits & use small 'BA' screws & nuts to secure.
13. tap the pin back in, BUT not too far or it will foul the mech.
14. reinsert barrel, refit pickup coil & bezel & you are done!
The attached photo shows where the locking pin is & you can also see the screws & nuts.

Doh! locking pin obviously comes out AFTER you remove the front bezel!

It could be even simlper & why I didn't try this is bizzare. Try inserting the key in the barrel once removed from the column & try to slide the lock mech' out rearwards. Might work?