2003 Renault Clio inconsistnet rattle near passenger glove box, wipers, indicators cutting out and two non-starter incidents,
Year: 2003
Variant: 1.2
Categories:
Running Rough, Starting & Power Loss
Can anyone help? Renault suggest new UCH but not 100% sure as problem of wipers cutting out didn't occur during diagnostic testing, however fast clickerty-clack/ rattle sound was heard near passenger footwell/ glove box area. Since then wipers cut out and re-start intermittently - usually restarting after pulling over and re-starting engine but not always.
When I use key fob to lock/ unlock car, sometimes lock sound has echo/ juddery effect; A couple of days ago, the car didn't start, no sound at all when turning key although radio worked; Today indicators cut out but worked again later; AA call out after non starting incident suggest ECU unit - AA equipment bypassed computer and got it starting again but Renault suggest UCH is the problem. Can't afford to get both things replaced, what to do? Also, as I sat in car with engine off and keys out of ignition, heard a short rattle/ click from passenger footwell/ glove box area, thought I'd turn engine over but complete silence again. Pressed key fob to lock/ unlock and engine started again. Once when unlocking car, it remianed locked despite several attempts with key fob then locks popped up like a delayed reaction. Any ideas/ advice most welcome. Thanks.
When I use key fob to lock/ unlock car, sometimes lock sound has echo/ juddery effect; A couple of days ago, the car didn't start, no sound at all when turning key although radio worked; Today indicators cut out but worked again later; AA call out after non starting incident suggest ECU unit - AA equipment bypassed computer and got it starting again but Renault suggest UCH is the problem. Can't afford to get both things replaced, what to do? Also, as I sat in car with engine off and keys out of ignition, heard a short rattle/ click from passenger footwell/ glove box area, thought I'd turn engine over but complete silence again. Pressed key fob to lock/ unlock and engine started again. Once when unlocking car, it remianed locked despite several attempts with key fob then locks popped up like a delayed reaction. Any ideas/ advice most welcome. Thanks.
Posted: Sep 7, 2011 (12 years ago)
The "fast clickerty-clack/ rattle sound " sounds like a sticking relay .You should try and locate and identify where the noise is coming from when it occurs . I would also suggest you get car battery load tested , could be down on power .When was the remote control battery last changed ?
Posted Sep 7, 2011 (12 years ago)
Thanks for that suggestion, key fob battery was replaced a week ago, the car battery about two years ago...the AA man tested the battery strength it was 10 point something which I understand is slightly below...normal being 12 or above? I think the rattling sound is coming from the far left of the car - near or below the fuse box but more like underneath where the passenger footwell is.
Posted Sep 7, 2011 (12 years ago)
Battery reading is far too low . You should get it tested as suggested and / or recharged if all o.k. and no weak or dud cells . At that reading the alternator will be working very hard to try and charge battery .Any fast fit centre , good accessory store or local garage would usually test battery and alternator while you wait F.O.C. Simple 2 min checks .A low battery doesn't help with central locking either . Hope this helps you .
Posted Sep 7, 2011 (12 years ago)
hi Kate. i have been having similar issues to you but one thing i can say is that that clicking noise ur experiencing is due to a relay in the UCH box as far as I'm aware. please be warned the issues ur experiencing with ur wipers is only the beginning eventually all the components in ur car will begin to fail intermittently over time.
I think i have found a solution to ur problem but i wouldn't suggest doing this yet as you should wait for the issue to worsen but what i am going to do the beginning of the new year is replace my UCH box but to do that you will need to replace the ECU and key ignition as they are all coded together. i was originally going to get it replaced by renalt and recoded but they were quoting around £900 just to replace the UCH box and recode it but that is ay too expensive. so if u replace all 3 components i just mentioned with second hand ones u can do it for around 300 total i think if you would like more details feel free to email me because there are a lot of ppl like us in the dark and we need to put the word out
I think i have found a solution to ur problem but i wouldn't suggest doing this yet as you should wait for the issue to worsen but what i am going to do the beginning of the new year is replace my UCH box but to do that you will need to replace the ECU and key ignition as they are all coded together. i was originally going to get it replaced by renalt and recoded but they were quoting around £900 just to replace the UCH box and recode it but that is ay too expensive. so if u replace all 3 components i just mentioned with second hand ones u can do it for around 300 total i think if you would like more details feel free to email me because there are a lot of ppl like us in the dark and we need to put the word out
Posted Dec 10, 2013 (10 years ago)
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