2004 Ford Edge speedo, rev, temp & mile-meter not working.
Year: 2004
Variant: Transit 85/T260 2.0Dsl SWB with 85000 Miles
Categories:
Electrics, ECU, Warnings & Lights
With the last 2 Month's I have an ongoing problem with the Dash display on the Transit. Initially it was quite intermittent and for the last two week's it has been close to continuous. Prior to this starting I had a welding job done on the underneath of the Van due to Rust which appears to be an extensive issue on Transit.
Currently when I start the Van the only item working in the Dash is the Fuel Gauge. The Temp, Speedo, Rev-counter and Mile-meter will not move. The Speedo and Rev-counter will move from where they were resting to the "0" position. I have probably driven 50 Miles recently without any budge on these (no change in the Mile-meter). Two day's ago I started the Van and the Speedo and Rev-counter behaved correctly and dropped to "0" within two minutes and had no further movement from then. A few week's ago if they were in the "0" position and I hit the top of the Dash over the Speedo etc they sprang to life or alternatively if I ignored them they would come to life after about 5 Miles. I did see something on Youtube about Solder connections coming undone on the Circuit Board behind the clock's as a general issue on various vehicles. Is this likely to be a "dampness issue" or am I looking at a more extensive problem. Any suggestions on how to resolve this would be appreciated.
If giving a solution please specify how to go about it.
Apart from the above issue the Van is excellent to Start and is driving very well.
Thank you.
Currently when I start the Van the only item working in the Dash is the Fuel Gauge. The Temp, Speedo, Rev-counter and Mile-meter will not move. The Speedo and Rev-counter will move from where they were resting to the "0" position. I have probably driven 50 Miles recently without any budge on these (no change in the Mile-meter). Two day's ago I started the Van and the Speedo and Rev-counter behaved correctly and dropped to "0" within two minutes and had no further movement from then. A few week's ago if they were in the "0" position and I hit the top of the Dash over the Speedo etc they sprang to life or alternatively if I ignored them they would come to life after about 5 Miles. I did see something on Youtube about Solder connections coming undone on the Circuit Board behind the clock's as a general issue on various vehicles. Is this likely to be a "dampness issue" or am I looking at a more extensive problem. Any suggestions on how to resolve this would be appreciated.
If giving a solution please specify how to go about it.
Apart from the above issue the Van is excellent to Start and is driving very well.
Thank you.
Posted: Jan 5, 2016 (8 years ago)
Could check all earths , especially from engine / g/box to body .Check connection / plug at rear of instrument panel , but may be a fault in the instrument cluster itself .
Posted Jan 5, 2016 (8 years ago)
Given that they do work sometimes,
Hitting included,
I'd suspect connections to the rear of the speedo/dash pod.
Remove it and check the multi plug connector on the rear.
Hitting included,
I'd suspect connections to the rear of the speedo/dash pod.
Remove it and check the multi plug connector on the rear.
Posted Jan 5, 2016 (8 years ago)
Transit Dash not reading correctly or not at all. (Photo 6707)
Remove the upper and lower Steering Wheel Cowl’s. The upper un-clips and the lower is held by 3 screw’s.
Remove the two screws that go upwards holding the cowl around the Instrument cluster – you need a short X screwdriver for this.
There are two screws holding the lower edge of this cowl also to be removed – I used a small ratchet with a X screwdriver tip. (Photo 6710)
This cowl can now be removed upwards. (Photo 6711)
The Instrument cluster is held in place by two X screws – remove these and the cluster is now free. (Photo 6712 & 13) Bring the L/h side of the cluster forward and allow the R/h side to drop back in to the opening and you will get access to the one connector which is on the back of the cluster. (Photo 6714 & 15) There is a blackish coloured clip to be prised up and across gently. The Grey connector block will now be free to disconnect from the cluster. (Photo 6717) Now carefully remove the Instrument cluster out to the right and you have it free. (Photo 6719)
Remove the Black cover from the back of the cluster by gently lifting the clips.You now have access to the circuit board at the back of the cluster.
There were several dark spots around soldering locations on the circuit board – I got a dry clean cloth and wiped these clean. They seemed to have a build up of condensation / gunge around them. (Photo 6720, 21 & 22) This wiped off freely – do not use too much force.
I also took the opportunity to remove the Perspex front from the cluster and gave it a good clean both inside and out. (Photo 6723) Two of these clips are hard to undo – I slipped a small flat tipped screwdriver under them and pressed the glass finger through.
Put the Perspex front and black cover back on the cluster – insert it back into position and connect the Grey connector back in position. My Mileometer and clock were back immediately – no more broken lines – the only downside being that I gained 100,000 Miles on the Mileometer. I started and test drove the Van – Rev Counter, Speedo and Temperature Gauge worked as normal. (Photo 6724 & 31)
Now work backwards and re-install all the bit’s above.
This seems to have sorted my issue I cannot promise it will do the same for your’s.
The photo's are available but I did not get an option to post them.
Remove the upper and lower Steering Wheel Cowl’s. The upper un-clips and the lower is held by 3 screw’s.
Remove the two screws that go upwards holding the cowl around the Instrument cluster – you need a short X screwdriver for this.
There are two screws holding the lower edge of this cowl also to be removed – I used a small ratchet with a X screwdriver tip. (Photo 6710)
This cowl can now be removed upwards. (Photo 6711)
The Instrument cluster is held in place by two X screws – remove these and the cluster is now free. (Photo 6712 & 13) Bring the L/h side of the cluster forward and allow the R/h side to drop back in to the opening and you will get access to the one connector which is on the back of the cluster. (Photo 6714 & 15) There is a blackish coloured clip to be prised up and across gently. The Grey connector block will now be free to disconnect from the cluster. (Photo 6717) Now carefully remove the Instrument cluster out to the right and you have it free. (Photo 6719)
Remove the Black cover from the back of the cluster by gently lifting the clips.You now have access to the circuit board at the back of the cluster.
There were several dark spots around soldering locations on the circuit board – I got a dry clean cloth and wiped these clean. They seemed to have a build up of condensation / gunge around them. (Photo 6720, 21 & 22) This wiped off freely – do not use too much force.
I also took the opportunity to remove the Perspex front from the cluster and gave it a good clean both inside and out. (Photo 6723) Two of these clips are hard to undo – I slipped a small flat tipped screwdriver under them and pressed the glass finger through.
Put the Perspex front and black cover back on the cluster – insert it back into position and connect the Grey connector back in position. My Mileometer and clock were back immediately – no more broken lines – the only downside being that I gained 100,000 Miles on the Mileometer. I started and test drove the Van – Rev Counter, Speedo and Temperature Gauge worked as normal. (Photo 6724 & 31)
Now work backwards and re-install all the bit’s above.
This seems to have sorted my issue I cannot promise it will do the same for your’s.
The photo's are available but I did not get an option to post them.
Posted Jan 23, 2016 (8 years ago)
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