These can be a bugger to diagnose,I mean if it's not doing it's thing when I'm looking then you can never be sure!
But I'm with you up to a point,just replacing parts is not the way to do it,
That stated,you have a fault so........
My testing would be center on the crank angle sensor,
It cuts dead,no warning,
so low fuel pressure or flow is unlikely,either would be apparent in the engine running just prior to the fault.
from your description it's the same as you have turned the key off!
And to all intents when this happens the ECU will see a no crank angle sensor signal and will conclude you have switched the engine off,
so no fault code registered.
Only 2 options,1,find a mechanic with an occilliscope with flight recorder function,this will show a waveform pattern until the fault,which I'm supposing is the internal circuitry going open circuit when hot/warm,opperating normaly when cooling down,well,from an electrical point of view.
Or buy and fit a new crank angle sensor,certainly a lot cheaper than the options explored so far.
And yes I have had several Crank Angle Sensors fail on various vehicles, in just such a manner.
Which reminds me,there is a third test option,
when,the hard part,when it next does it you or your mechanic will need to rapidly cool down the crank angle sensor with a can of freeze O spray,
I buy mine from my local maplins,
this spray can can cool anything it sprays onto well down to solid frost forming on the item in question/
If the engine then starts up instantly there's no question.
But,not so easy to get to spray the CAS on this car.
About all I could suggest is you run your usuall rout where it fails with a mechanic armed with a can of maplins "freeze spray" and hope it cuts out!
Posted on Friday 27th of September 2013Don't understand this? Ask a question